North Cascades 1968 with the Explorers Club of Pittsburgh
2. On the way to Bonanza Peak

Bonanza Peak from Railroad Creek September 1968
Here's our first view of our first goal: Bonanza Peak.

The highest peak in this picture is just a buttress (8599 feet) on a ridge facing Railroad Creek.  The actual peak (9511 feet) is barely visible left of the prominent peak.  This view was seen from the
trail along Railroad Creek.
Bonanza Peak from the Railroad Creek trail September 1968
Getting closer ... We're on the way up to Holden Lake.

I have erased from memory the bus ride from Lake Chelan and the black flies along the trail to Holden Lake.  I nearly went nuts over the flies, until my companions told me to cool it.  So I did; and then the flies couldn't find me any more.  I had been the most excited of the group and therefore the most delectable.  As soon as I calmed down, the flies left me alone. 
Bonanza Peak from above Holden Lake
Closer yet ... we've moved to the right of the knob in the preceding image, but you can still see Lucille Glacier at left in each image.
Twilight view of Bonanza Peak across Holden Lake September 1968
At twilight we got our first view of the whole route up Bonanza Peak, from extreme right to the sharp peak above the triangular glacier interrupted by the prominent crevasse at upper left.  The glacier in the foreground is the Mary Green.

Looking across the prominent talus slope at the buttress of Bonanza Peak September 1968
Looking across the prominent talus slope in the image above towards the hidden top of Bonanza Peak and the glacier below.

Note the rainbow in the ca. 500-foot waterfall at lower right.
Holden Lake from the base of Bonanza Peak September 1968
Holden Lake.  Our camp is at the farthest point of the lake.  That's Copper Peak (8966 feet) at the far right. 
Mike looking down on Holden Lake from Mary Green Glacier September 1968We're on our way up now !  Mike is standing on the lower portion of Mary Green Glacier looking down at Holden Lake.

The topographic map of Bonanza Peak is here.

However, this map shows our entire route.  Be sure to update the map to 1:100,000 to see the whole route from Holden Lake via the Mary Green Glacier.

Our entire route information came from the Holden Quad of the USGS 1:62500 series topographic map and the 1961 edition of the Climber's Guide to the Cascade and Olympic Mountains of Washington, by a Committee of the Cascade Section of the American Alpine Club, to wit:

Route 1. From 1-1/2 miles W. of Holden take the 2-mile brushy trail to 5200-ft. Holden Lake where camp can be made.  Climb N. up talus and snow toward Holden Pass (6400), bearing W. onto Mary Green Glacier.  Just before reaching the pass, ascend diagonally left under the cliffy summit structure and climb an icy apron to its upper right hand corner.  Ascend slabby rock up and to the left, reaching the ridge at a prominent notch 100 yards N.E. of the summit.  The ridge is easily followed to the summit.  The upper rocks are Class 3 when free from snow, but before August, with snow on the face, the climb becomes difficult and dangerous.  Time: 8-10 hours up. 

They're not kidding about Class 3 and dangerous when snowy or wet.  The smooth rock slopes too steeply to stand just anywhere.  One can only stand on the nubbins that stick up here and there, most about the size of your hand or knuckles.  Occassionally, there are bigger nubbins on which one can sort-of sit to effect a tenuous belay.  We did not climb back down across this face; instead, we descended, first along the northeast ridge, and then onto the northern margin of the Mary Green Glacier.  We eventually had to make a ca. 50-foot rappel into the moat between the side of the glacier and the rock, about which, more, later.  After that it was just downhill back to camp.

This climb has everything: Hiking; talus slopes; crevassed glacier; exposed rock climbing; route finding ... rapelling; ... snow-cliff climbing; more route finding; ... night hiking.